A love letter to Kingsbridge

The South Devon National Landscape is filled with popular holiday destinations, boasting picturesque coastal panoramas. Bigbury-on-Sea is famous for its connecting tidal island, Burgh Island, which is only reachable by land at low tide. Salcombe’s narrow streets lead to a bustling harbour populated by boats of all sizes, from tiny fishing boats to huge yachts. But a larger – and arguably livelier – place waits just a few minutes’ drive from these famous locations.

“A wide variety of stallholders from the surrounding area descend upon the town to sell their local eggs, flowers, honey, spice mixes, and even venison!”

Kingsbridge is centred around its quay, which is situated at the end of the estuary to which the town gives its name. Here, rows and rows of small sailing boats line the waters, except for at low tide, when the water level lowers to reveal the seaweed-stained stone walls, transforming the quay into more of a mud flat; the boats all appear to sink to the ground, resting on the brown sand dotted with pebbles that lie beneath, until the tide returns and they rise up once again. More than a few sailors must have been caught out by this on their way up the estuary to visit Kingsbridge.

In the summer, when the town is at its busiest, the paths running alongside the water will be full of children with crabbing nets stuffed with cheap ham – most of which were probably just bought from the beach shop up the road – and buckets filled with tiny colourful crabs scuttling around in salt water, waiting to be ceremoniously poured back into the estuary. Beside this, in the town square, Kingsbridge Farmers’ Market is run three times a month, filling the area (which usually just holds the tourist information centre) with colourful stalls run by local businesses. A wide variety of stallholders from the surrounding area descend upon the town to sell their local eggs, flowers, honey, spice mixes, and even venison! 

“Kingsbridge Cookworthy Museum displays photographs, porcelain items, and clothing tied to the local history, as far back as Kingsbridge’s founding in the 10th century, when it was known as ‘Kyngysbrygge’”

Venturing into the town would take you up Fore Street – but not before being tempted by the chippy and ice cream shop that sit at the bottom of the hill. Lining the sides of the town’s main road are a series of colourful buildings boasting a variety of goods, with clothing shops sharing terraces with art galleries, toy shops, and bakeries. Many of these businesses are run by people from the town, who will usually be glad to reveal their own story of living in Kingsbridge – whether they were born and raised here, or moved here after many holiday visits. The picturesque buildings around Fore Street hold much of the history of the town, with some dating back to the 15th century. This road also holds the old Town Hall, now converted into a cinema, and Kingsbridge Cookworthy Museum (contained within an old grammar school) which displays photographs, porcelain items, and clothing tied to the local history, as far back as Kingsbridge’s founding in the 10th century, when it was known as ‘Kyngysbrygge’.

“To me, the town somehow possesses a secret fairy tale feel (despite the fact it is a well-known tourist destination and undeniably a modern town)”

One of the most appealing things about Kingsbridge is its centrality, despite the feeling of remoteness. It is only around half an hour’s drive from the larger towns of Totnes, Paignton, and Torquay, and less than an hour from Plymouth, giving easy access to these busier areas when the countryside landscape doesn’t feel quite exciting enough. These locations all have public transport links, albeit not often and fairly slow (but is it really the countryside if the buses are convenient?). If travelling across land isn’t appealing, why not hire a boat, a kayak, or even a paddleboard from beside Kingsbridge Quay and travel down the estuary? This would bring a unique view of the rolling South Devon hills on the way down to Salcombe, before the inlet opens up onto the English Channel.

I first found myself in Kingsbridge over a decade ago on a family holiday to a nearby village, and it has remained a necessary place to return every time I visit South Devon. Certain shops and spots hold a sense of nostalgia and happiness for me, places that I have revisited for years, that seem to remain exactly the same as when I last saw them. To me, the town somehow possesses a secret fairy tale feel (despite the fact it is a well-known tourist destination and undeniably a modern town). It is an appealing place in its own right, as well as an excellent jumping-point to explore the surrounding area; tucked in the hills of the South Hams, with winding streets snaking up some exhausting inclines, it feels as if you could jump on a boat at the quay and sail into another world.