Budapest and other excellent decisions

Last July, two friends and I were looking to book a holiday “on the cheap”. Having gone to Budapest with my family the year before and eager to return ever since – though perhaps in a more “student-y” fashion – I pushed for the Hungarian capital as the perfect location for a cheap and exciting holiday.

Our economical approach saw us fly in with Wizz Air. Although they were slightly too onomatopoeic and far too close to “Pop!” and “Bang!” for them not to be laughable to travel with, we had a very easy flight, and were even given extra leg room at the cost of overseeing the emergency exits (and presumably the lives of everyone aboard).

The 19th-century architecture proved consistently spectacular, particularly the magnificent Parliament building and St Stephen’s Basilica

After touchdown we rocked up to our accommodation, which cost us only £10 a night each, a price that proved fantastic value. Provided with two double beds and our own bathroom right in the heart of the well-located Jewish Quarter, it felt a cut above hostel living and for only £30 total. And although it involved sharing a bed, falling asleep drunk every night proved the perfect solution.

We soon set off to wander the city’s beautiful streets. The 19th-century architecture proved consistently spectacular, particularly the magnificent Parliament building and St Stephen’s Basilica. Soaking in the ambience on day one was the top priority, perhaps second only to taking photos near the Parliament. We also popped to Jubileumi Park and enjoyed a view of the famous Budapest Chain Bridge. Stretching over the full width of the Danube and dotted with Budapest’s iconic yellow trams, it was a fantastic sight. Said trams were not just an aesthetic either; proving fantastically reliable, they ferried us around the city in style.

That night, we were off to Szimpla Kert, the most popular of the city’s ruin bars. It occupied an abandoned building, covered head to toe in graffiti, lights, greenery, and colours of all kinds, not to mention with people eager to chat. Going in July proved fantastic for meeting interrailers, many of whom saw Budapest as their final stop before home, and were eager to talk and make the most of the night.

Leaving the ruin bar after a few extremely fun hours saw us heading straight to Budapest’s most famous club: Instant-Fogas. Entirely free to enter and with drinks prices that didn’t make you wince, its dozens of genre rooms made for a fantastic, seemingly endless cavern of clubbing.

The fairy tale steps up to the Fisherman’s Bastion felt like something out of Cinderella, and the views of the Danube and the city either side were spectacular

The next day, we dragged ourselves out of bed to cross the river once more into Buda, the far hillier counterpart to “Pest”. Our destination was Budai Várnegyed, or Castle Hill, a beautiful medieval area overlooking the Danube. Matthias Church proved a spectacular sight as it jutted up into the sky. The fairy tale steps up to the Fisherman’s Bastion felt like something out of Cinderella, and the views of the Danube and the city either side were spectacular. The Fisherman’s Bastion offers some of the most beautiful and famous views of the city and is frankly a non-negotiable spot for photo-taking.

As the evening rolled around, it was time for our unlimited prosecco cruise along the Danube. Again, it is almost mandatory for those looking to maximise Budapest. The sights from the river proved even more spectacular, particularly the Parliament, which remains one of the most amazing buildings I’ve ever seen.

Afterwards, we headed to another ruin bar, our hopes sky-high after Szimpla Kert. However, upon arrival, we soon realised that it was no replacement, and quickly rerouted to our spiritual home for the holiday, eager to get there before the effects of the prosecco wore off.

We ate lunch at the restaurant beside the bathhouse, and I had one of the nicest meals I’ve ever eaten, a chicken paprikash that I genuinely still think about to this day

Szimpla Kert did not disappoint. Again, met with the beautiful kaleidoscope of colours at every turn, and with each room a new fun opportunity, we returned to our bread and butter of drinking and meeting random people.

Two particular highlights were talking to a man who claimed to be a cameraman for Ridley Scott, noting that he was “not a good guy, but got results”, and bumping into twins from our rather small town back home, who were in the year below my friend at primary school.

Again, the siren song of Instant-Fogas called, and hot off the prosecco and cheap drinks of Szimpla Kert, we had a fantastic night. Exploring even more rooms of the club, which seemed to cavern deeper and deeper underground with every drink.

The next day was, by necessity, a bit more relaxed. We visited Varosliget, a Disneyland-esque castle in the middle of a park, before drifting towards the Szechenyi, the most famous bathhouse in Budapest. With its beautiful 19th-century yellowed design and grand central baths, it proved the perfect backdrop for sauna, swim, and overall recovery from the night before. Afterwards, we ate lunch at the restaurant beside the bathhouse, and I had one of the nicest meals I’ve ever eaten, a chicken paprikash that I genuinely still think about to this day. 

That evening, we were back and eager to repeat what we thought was the perfect formula: go to Szimpla Kert, meet people organically and easily, then go to Instant-Fogas, and have a great night. This did not initially pan out.

Returning to our room at 4 something in the morning, we felt as close to Aristotle’s idea of Eudaimonia as I’m sure he’d ever hoped for

First, however, we were off to a McDonald’s that turned into a club… except in July. The first failure. Then we thought, no worries, we’ll go see the Parliament all lit up.  Thwarted again. Turns out, they only do it for an hour between 9-10, and it was 10:10. No worries, we have a wine tasting that came with our river cruise. That’ll be fun and a good pregame. No, dear reader, it wasn’t. They dumped three glasses of wine down, told us nothing about them, and promptly waited for us to leave.

Fine. We’ll fall back on the old, reliable: Szimpla Kert. This time, though, no funny characters or chatty interrailers or supposed cameramen for famous directors. So, we headed to Instant-Fogas, just the three of us, and actually had the best night of the holiday.

The music was fantastic, the drinks were flowing, and we had an amazing time, no interlopers or interrailers required. It was quite wholesome, a feeling helped by the alcohol. Returning to our room at 4 something in the morning, we felt as close to Aristotle’s idea of Eudaimonia as I’m sure he’d ever hoped for.

Before we knew it, however, we were whizzing back to England, confident we’d maximised every waking hour, and yet still, I was unable to shake the thought that I couldn’t wait to go back again for more.