The statements of fashion: How did books become a must-have accessory?

Last summer, the archetype of the performative male (a man defined by his tendency to carry a paperback in the back pocket of his jeans whilst pretending to read feminist literature) quickly gained popularity online. This summer, the fashion industry has taken the act of performative reading a step further as multiple designers have created entire collections centred on books. Is this fashion craze an opportunity to exploit literature as a symbol of social status? Probably. Does it also indicate a desire for intellectualism and physical media in an age dominated by mindless doom-scrolling and ‘brain rot’? Definitely.

In collaboration with Penguin Random House, Coach recently launched a collection of bag charms resembling miniature copies of books, ranging from Jane Austen’s Sense and Sensibility to Maya Angelou’s I Know Why the Caged Bird Sings and Jandy Nelson’s YA novel I’ll Give You the Sun. These charms are not only decoration but are also readable, containing every page included in the full-sized novel found in bookstores, blending both fashion and function. Whilst it is admittedly much more affordable and accessible to buy a physical copy of Sense and Sensibility from a local bookstore, as soon as Elle Fanning was photographed reading her miniature book charm on the New York subway, it became the summer’s must-have accessory.

These trends clearly display a societal desire for the self-expression and excitement which define childhood

These literary-inspired bag charms being priced at £95 each and only being produced in a limited amount of stock clearly perpetuates the idea that books are luxurious markers of high social status. Whilst this concept highlights the power of being well-read, its inaccessibility problematically reinforces the antiquated idea that literature is only available to the upper classes.

Many other fashion houses have jumped on this trend of books being fashion accessories. For example, Dior released a line of tote bags displaying famous book covers as part of their spring/summer ‘26 collection. Predictably, these book-inspired accessories are extortionately priced at over £2000 each. Dior’s decision to partner with book influencers, such as ‘the internet’s librarian’ Jack Edwards, in order to promote this collection, has made these accessories seem even more desirable and worth investing in.

It is clear as day to see that the latest trends have officially deemed intellectualism to be cool

All the hottest designer brands having followed this trend has inevitably influenced the accessories available to purchase in high-street stores.  For example, River Island recently created a more affordable line of accessories entirely based on Enid Blyton’s novels, such as embroidered clutch bags and tote bags featuring the iconic children’s book covers.  This collection sold out very quickly in the lead up to summer, exposing a societal rejection of fast fashion trends in favour of the constancy promised by classic novels. The popularity of this collection also reveals the widespread wistfulness for childhood which is currently dominating this summer’s trends. We’ve seen this rising sense of nostalgia in the popularity of trinkets. For example, last year everyone was obsessed with Labubu keyrings whereas this year there is a preoccupation with Sonny Angels and Sylvanian Families blind bags. These trends clearly display a societal desire for the self-expression and excitement which define childhood.

It is clear as day to see that the latest trends have officially deemed intellectualism to be cool. In fact, literature seems to be talked about in all avenues of pop culture. For example, ultimate ‘cool girl’ and stylish singer Dua Lipa is often celebrated for her forward-thinking book club, Service95. Book clubs seem to have become a marker of status for a wide array of celebrities such as Reese’s Book Club which regularly adapts books into successful screen adaptations and The Laufey Book Club which sets up little free libraries for the singer’s fans, thus working to make reading more accessible. People are no longer merely looking to celebrities for style and beauty inspiration but are now searching for literature recommendations, with the majority of fans being ready to purchase whatever book is recommended to them.

Perhaps the best accessory of all is the physical book itself

It is no coincidence that the fashion industry is becoming progressively inspired by the originality and creativity exhibited through literature whilst we are living in a digital age dominated by AI, a tool which is increasingly stifling self-expression. Additionally, as thousands of TikTok users post about the guilt they feel over spending their summer doom-scrolling, there is an undeniable desire for a return to physical media. Whether it be through picking up retired hobbies such as reading and painting, or merely curating a new, personal DVD collection, it is clear that Gen Z wish to reclaim their sense of originality.

This summer, there are plenty of ways to demonstrate your love for reading through fashion. Whether it be through wearing a tote bag sourced from your local, independent bookstore or investing in a literary-inspired Coach bag charm, you can proclaim yourself as a certified reader. But, perhaps the best accessory of all is the physical book itself which has inspired so many moments in fashion over the years. Rather than treating books as a mere aesthetic symbol, the best way to gain self-understanding is through reading and engaging with literature.