Fashion Focus: fashion weeks – Copenhagen

A fashion capital refers to a city with a major influence on the international fashion scene. This title is applicable when referring to the ‘Big Four’ – New York, London, Milan, and Paris – which host the most notable fashion weeks. They possess the biggest fashion houses and brands as well as publish the biggest fashion magazines. Despite this, on the fringe is Copenhagen which hosted its fashion week at the end of January. Copenhagen is coming under the spotlight for ‘positioning themselves as a leader in sustainability and innovation with the goal of setting new industry standards’. Does Copenhagen have the potential to join or replace one of the ‘Big Four’?

There was a range of unique, innovative, and creative collections from many Danish brands, but also from less mainstream designers

One of the strongest elements of Copenhagen Fashion Week (CPHFW) is its focus on sustainability. In 2020, CPHFW introduced their Sustainability Action Plan which introduced a set of ‘Minimum Standards’. These standards, from 2023, are required to be met by brands to be considered for the schedule of CPHFW. These standards relate to smart material choices, consumer engagement, working conditions, and strategic direction. Therefore, CPHFW is dominated by more environmentally and morally conscious brands, which allows the event to be used as a framework when attempting to engage with more sustainable fashion and innovative practices. This framework has had a major influence on the international fashion scene through partnerships with Berlin Fashion Week, Oslo Runway, Norwegian Fashion Hub, and the British Fashion Council.

The collections portrayed at CPHFW were held in high regard by critics. There was a range of unique, innovative, and creative collections from many Danish brands, but also from less mainstream designers. This is due to CPHWF having a dedicated scheme – CPHFW NEWTALENT – which works to nurture and promote emerging Nordic brands through monetary support, advice, and onboarding. This scheme allows for an ever-expanding Nordic fashion scene, with investment in the next generation allowing for increased international recognition of Copenhagen’s fashion.

One of the brands supported by this scheme is Masculina, which displayed its third and final show as part of this scheme at the most recent CPHFW. The brand asserts itself as ‘built on the notions of inclusion, craftsmanship, femininity, and high glamour’. The autumn/winter 2025 collection, titled ‘Give The Girl A Gun’ has been described as explosive and poetic. Alectra Rothschild, Masculina’s designer, in an interview at Submission Beauty, when describing the collection stated: “It is a very angry and sad collection, but my hope is that it’s also empowering – taking autonomy back.” Make-up artist Nomiey argued: “This collection imagines beauty as a form of activism”. As a trans designer, Rothschild in her collections, is always centring her community. The collection opened with a voice recording of Trump slandering trans people before being interrupted by Rothschild demanding “turn that shit off” before performing a monologue to introduce the collection. The show can be defined by its diversity. The models were all uniquely beautiful, with ranging body types and complexions, as well as presenting their garments in diverse ways, with some engaging in a more standard presentation, while others engaged in choreography and acrobatics. In parallel, the collection was similarly diverse, with a range of colours, shapes, and materials. Despite this, the collection was uniform in theme, portraying the models as assassins – able to move around, to be strong and protect themselves – whether this be through slashing garments or the incorporation of masks.

Copenhagen is undeniably important in the international fashion world and is rightfully regarded as the fashion capital of Scandinavia

Masculina was an incredibly impactful, important, and distinctive collection displayed at CPHFW, but the week in its entirety was full of creativity and innovation. Another example would be GESTUZ, a Danish fashion brand, focused on creating attainable luxury for the modern woman. They portrayed a polished collection dominated by power suits to present an image of an independent, feminine woman – emboldened by a phrase projected at the end of the show: “And please don’t bring me any more roses. I can buy my own.”

Copenhagen is undeniably important in the international fashion world and is rightfully regarded as the fashion capital of Scandinavia. Does it have the potential to dethrone one of the ‘Big Four’? I fear not. The concept of the ‘Big Four’ is heavily entrenched, and their fashion weeks will continue to receive the most press coverage. Regardless, CPHFW is not something to dismiss or ignore, and the impact of Copenhagen in the international space is undeniable.