Fashion Focus: Y/Project

Y/Project, a renowned Parisian brand celebrated as a cult-favourite for its avant-garde designs, is ceasing operations after 14 years. The closure of the beloved fashion house marks the end of an era for avant-garde fashion, so let’s take some time to celebrate the work and the impact of the label.

Y/Project was launched in 2010 by Gilles Elalouf and Yohan Serfaty, starting out as a small, artisanal menswear label. Glenn Martens arrived in 2013 and introduced a womenswear line and the brand emerged into pop culture as a subversive fashion label. The brand was celebrated for pushing the boundaries of traditional fashion through gender-bending, free-spirited designs.

Martens, who was appointed following the passing of Serfaty, was previously an assistant of Serfaty in 2009, before working with Bruno Pieters. He had his own label which went under in 2013, making him available for this new position, with something to prove. In the vision of Serfaty, the brand initially remained dark and moody with inspiration from Rick Owens. Martens revitalised the brand through what he described as a “poppy/trashy/transgender vibe” taking inspiration from streetwear, with the intention to make add flair to the familiar.

Importantly, the brand was successful beyond their garments, with their jewellery involving statement pieces

Y/Project was highly successful, being one of the eight finalists for the LVMH Prize for Young Designers. Their designs were worn by high-profile celebrities and fashion icons, for example, Lady Gaga, Rihanna, Charli XCX, and Anok Yai, as well as having numerous successful collaborations from Fila to Diemme to Melissa. The collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier, however, was the most groundbreaking and impactful. It was initially teased at Y/Project’s autumn/winter 2022 presentation and involved body morph trompe l’oeil (trick-of-the-eye) suits and gowns, which refer to garments that display thermally imaged nude bodies. The collaboration was highly sought after and incredibly well-received due to its risqué nature.

An additional collaboration that sparked discourse was Y/Project x UGG, which culminated in creating thigh-high uggs, triple-stacked uggs, and stiletto uggs. The ability of the brand to take something so iconic, and completely alter its structure, is a testament to the brand’s creativity. In terms of garments, the label was best known for its innovation with denim jeans. Denim jeans acted as a canvas to explore asymmetry and volume through stretching, crinkling, editing, and embellishing. Importantly, the brand was successful beyond their garments, with their jewellery involving statement pieces such as the ‘sapphic scissoring’ enamel necklaces and earrings in 2019 to their gold and silver middle finger earrings in 2023.

Despite these successes, the brand had been suffering in recent years. In February, the autumn/winter presentation for 2024 was cancelled due to ‘uncertain times’, and then in June, Elalouf, one of the co-founders, passed away. Three months later, Martens stepped down as creative director – allowing him to spend more time as Diesel’s creative director, a position he has held since 2020. This truly marked the end of the brand, as it was placed into receivership by a Parisian commercial court, and with offers falling through, Y/Project was forced to shut down due to financial instability.

Ultimately, fast fashion practices, as opposed by Y/Project, appear more economically viable for brands and consumers but are more destructive and detrimental to the environment

Therefore, it is clear that Y/Project was facing internal struggles which can be attributed to its closure, but what’s the bigger picture? Y/Project is not alone as an independent label suffering in the current retail climate, with 2024 witnessing the shutdown of Interior, Mara Hoffman, and Rhode. Ultimately, despite nuances, these brands all closed due to economic instability. These brands, generally tending to use sustainable and quality materials, adhering to Fairtrade standards, and refusing to allow their artistic direction and principles to be tainted by investors, are unable to experience longevity as they oppose to well-known brands who engage in environmentally destructive and inhumane practices. Ultimately, fast fashion practices, in contrast to Y/Project, appear more economically viable for brands and consumers but are more destructive and detrimental to the environment, human rights, as well as to fashion and art.