Fashion focus: The Fashion Awards 2024

As mentioned in my column last week, The Fashion Awards 2024 took place just over two weeks ago. The awards, like the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) Fashion Awards, exist to focus the public eye on the immense and important contributions of fashion figures. Previously, I focussed my attention specifically on the ‘Model of the Year’ category, but now I will devote some discussion on the other categories, and the work of designers, ranging from menswear and womenswear to accessories.

Anderson was effective in using the momentum gained in 2023, to make further and greater fashion contributions, allowing him to be worthy of the same title in 2024

The principal honour of the awards is the coveted ‘Designer of the Year’. There were many significant nominees for this category, such as Chemena Kamali and Miuccia Prada, but ultimately the award was granted to Jonathan Anderson. The award criteria requires the nominees to have made a notable impact on the industry, defining the shape of global fashion. Anderson, through creative excellence, outstanding collections, and innovation is worthy of such an accolade. In 2023, Anderson also secured ‘Designer of the Year’ at The Fashion Awards. Therefore, Anderson is now among household names Vivienne Westwood (1990/91), John Galliano (1994/95), Alexander McQueen (1996/97), and Hussein Chalayan (1999/2000) as designers who have won this award consecutively.

Notably, in 2024, Anderson created the costumes for Luca Guadagnino’s film Queer, and earlier this year, designed the costumes for Challengers – starring Zendaya, Mike Faist, and Josh O’Connor. In Queer, Anderson demonstrated a strong breadth of cultural references and was able to use styling, through contrast and colour palettes, as a subtle source of character development. He also held the title of honorary chair at the Met Gala. Anderson was effective in using the momentum gained in 2023, to make further and greater fashion contributions, allowing him to be worthy of the same title in 2024.

‘British Menswear Designer of The Year’ was awarded to Grace Wales Bonner, while ‘British Womenswear Designer of The Year’ was awarded to Simone Rocha. Wales Bonner showcased the ‘Caribbean scene’ at Paris Fashion Week which was full of colourful prints and stripes inspired by water, seaport cities, and the designs of Althea McNish. The collection was made with great connection to the McNish Trust, which allowed for the exuberant floral prints to be well adapted for the collections. This ensured that the work of McNish, the first black designer to achieve international recognition in the post-war fashion and textiles industry, was enshrined. Rocha constructed a ‘more intimate, interesting and playful’ collection that demonstrated duality in her work in 2024, swapping from signature billowing silhouettes to softer layering, with airy fabrics and bursts of tulle and tutus. Her work was impressive with dynamic themes, ranging from punk to ballerina, and was executed flawlessly with embroidered crystal flowers.

16Arlington is effective in catering to the inner party girl and the wallflower

‘New Establishment Menswear’ was awarded to Priya Ahluwalia for Ahluwalia, while ‘New Establishment Womenswear’ was awarded to Marco Capaldo for 16Arlington. The distinction between these categories compared to the prior two, is the focus on ‘creating a new movement in British fashion’. Ahluwalia had some incredible collections in 2024: ‘Reveries’ for autumn/winter 2024, and ‘Home Sweet Home’ for spring/summer 2025. The former was drawn from fables and folklore, and the latter was inspired by those who have traversed continents – both were rich in meaning and strong in craftsmanship. The 17th look from ‘Reveries’ was one of my favourites of the year, involving two contrasting pieces with heightened visual interest through colour, pattern and texture.

Capaldo, with 16Arlington, offered a modern, chic presentation of womenswear, with empowering silhouettes which embraced femininity and masculinity. The garments possessed strong expressions of sexuality contrasting with professional elements. 16Arlington is effective in catering to the inner party girl and the wallflower, and effortlessness defines Capaldo’s designs, allowing his work to be significant and impactful for fashion.

Finally, the ‘British Accessories Brand’ award, recognising a leading accessory business that has made a consistent global impact through their innovation and creativity, was awarded to Stephen Jones. Stephen Jones is acknowledged by celebrities and designers as one of the greatest contemporary milliners, and beyond this award, is also being celebrated through an exhibition at the Palais Galliera. His work is generally inspired by symbols of Paris and Parisian women, with his spring/summer 2025 collection, ‘The Curve’, taking inspiration from the sculptor Constantin Brancusi, and other Parisian designers. This collection involved hats that were dramatic, chic, and architectural.