The ‘Big Four’ Fashion Week highlights

Throughout September, in New York, London, Milan, and Paris, the ‘Big Four’ fashion weeks took place. In these weeks, designers reveal their spring and summer collections for 2025 through runway shows, and receive major media attention. Fashion Week is undeniably the highlight of the fashion calendar – deservingly so – as many celebrated designers demonstrate their creativity and craftsmanship. Let’s indulge in some of the highlights.

The 30 looks, less avant-garde than might be expected from NYFW, were undeniably aesthetically beautiful

Marking the beginning of the ‘Big Four’ fashion weeks, New York Fashion Week (NYFW) descended upon the city and portrayed a stunning array of collections for 2025. Notably, the work of queer New York designer, Daniella Kallmeyer, was a highlight of the week. Kallmeyer designs with an emphasis on empowerment and finding a balance between masculinity and femininity. NYFW was her first traditional runway debut, and it excelled through the clothing’s movement and fluidity. The looks had a consistent level of elegance, practicality, and simplicity. The 30 looks, less avant-garde than might be expected from NYFW, were undeniably aesthetically beautiful. The plaid patterns and consistent colour stories, with rich browns and blacks alongside creams and blues, were constructed into appealing garments: merging masculine and feminine elements. The closing look, a bridal look, draped beautifully and concluded the runway effectively.

Following NYFW, London celebrated 40 years of London Fashion Week (LFW) from September 12-17 2024. This week, with 72 designers, was full of established brands and emerging talents. One of these emerging talents, Feben, an Ethiopian designer, presented an incredibly impressive runway. Feben has beautiful designs inspired from all over the world. With exquisite craftmanship, she creates distinctive silhouettes and vibrant prints. Her collection, set in a Georgian townhouse, involved a range of garments, including dresses with flared skirts, super-flared trousers, and beaded embroidery, alongside her trademark twist silk technique. This technique is employed in a standout outfit, featuring a vivid yellow flaring maxi dress with coordinating earrings, sandwiching a deep purple scarf with the twisted technique.

Milan, from September 17-23, was the third of the ‘Big Four’. Avavav, an indie brand, garnered high levels of attention following their prior runway in February. In Milan Fashion Week’s AW24 (autumn winter 2024) edition, Avavav presented a truly artistic and compelling runway in which people were encouraged to throw rubbish onto the catwalk. This resulted in the stage being littered with crumpled paper and cardboard as a broader criticism of overconsumption. In their SS24 (spring summer 2024) edition, Avavav continued to engage audiences through embracing flaws and opposing the idea of exclusivity. The models, on a 100-meter-themed track, stumbled and attempted to be athletic as a commentary on the idea that the slim runway model isn’t necessarily sporty. The brand’s authenticity and creative direction made them a standout.

The message of the collection: one of unapologetic femininity and strength, was portrayed sensationally

Ultimately the ‘Big Four’ fashion weeks concluded with Paris. The most formidable collection was led by Dior, who began Fashion Week with live archery on the runway. Sofia Ginevra Giannì wowed the audience by shooting arrows through a transparent corridor spanning the runway. This performance, alongside the toga-style gowns, inspired by ancient Greece and other sporting ensembles, ensured the collection was imbued with the strength and power of women. The creative director, Chiuri, in her mission to make Dior more youthful and feminist, presented this collection with an emphasis on athleticism and agility, alongside illuminated and metallic embroideries. The message of the collection: one of unapologetic femininity and strength, was portrayed sensationally.

While these collections stood out to many, the ‘Big Four’ fashion weeks contained and involved a plethora of incredible designers which were unmentioned in this piece. Thus, I implore you to engage with the other works that featured in the shows – all of which involved high levels of thought, creativity, skill, and direction to complete.