Will’s Word On Warwick: Leamington – A town divided

Much is made of Leamington Spa’s North-South divide, since, just like Great Britain itself, Leamington is objectively split into two unanimously accepted halves by an unquestioned, horizontal line.

South Leam is characterised by its supposedly superior bus commute, less conventionally ‘idyllic’ housing, and a distinct lack of shops, cafes, or franchises. In contrast, North Leam is known for its more Victorian boulevards, spa town aesthetic, worse commute, and more varied facilities.

Image: North Leam, Will Moores

Some fringe extremists (myself included) even argue that a Midlands equivalent exists in central Leam, between the River Leam and the railroad bridge. Although no serious modern thinkers would posit the existence of a Midlands in the United Kingdom, the idea of a distinctly Leamingtonian central region is, in my books, one of considerable merit. Marked by its whitewashed housing, iconic venues like Neon, Assembly, and Viallis, and the imposing Parish Church alongside its optimally placed bus stop, this pseudo-midlands is hard to deny.

The pair are, of course, divided by the indivisible U2 bus to Warwick Gates, a service so irregular that its lack of physical on-route presence appears to form some abject opposite to the concept of ‘wall’

Like Berlin in the Cold War, America’s coastal rap scenes from 1994–1997, or the Catholic and Eastern Orthodox churches since 1054, Leamington is undoubtedly split between East and West. Though this is an often undiscussed aspect of Leamington’s cultural geography, there remain marked differences between the two tribes.

Image: River Leam, Will Moores

The pair are, of course, divided by the indivisible U2 bus to Warwick Gates, a service so irregular that its lack of physical on-route presence appears to form some abject opposite to the concept of ‘wall’. Architecturally, those on the Eastern side are treated to more boulevards, whitewashed buildings, and red brick terraces. What the East makes up for residentially, it lacks socially, with the West featuring such big hitters as Assembly, Moo, Smack, Altoria, and Neon – in other words, all of Leam’s clubs. While the best East Leam has to offer is TJs, which is about as dire as it gets.

Image: Leamington Canal, Will Moores

The two sides seem in almost endless competition. The West builds the structure that houses Leamington Library, and almost immediately, 203 years later, the East responds by opening The Old Library pub. Simply a coincidence? Not likely.

Do you Victoria Park or Jephson’s Gardens? Do you Craving or do you Viallis? Do you Old Lib or Leamington Library? Are you eastside or are you westside?

Northwest Leamington provided a venue for Stormzy to get into fights in and around Smack, undoubtedly making him the musician we know today

Whether a tribalist, factionalist local split exists within the confines of the council is hard to say, but the opening of a new garden in Western Leamington called Elizabeth Park (conspicuously bringing the number of large green spaces on each side up to two apiece) has not gone unnoticed by local truthers like myself.

Image: South Leam, Emily Cornish

Northeast Leamington has brought us such names as renowned professional podcaster Ben Foster, who also used to play football and attended school there. Conversely, Northwest Leamington provided a venue for Stormzy to get into fights in and around Smack, undoubtedly making him the musician we know today. Ultimately, both sides have clearly made a significant cultural and celebrity impact (though questions have to be asked of South Leam, which has seemingly failed to produce any notable musicians or goalkeepers-turned-influencers).

If Leamington Spa teaches us anything, it’s that people from totally different worlds can come together

This brings me to an additional Leamingtonian zone. That being the deep South. We’re talking areas like Heathcote, Bishop’s Tachbrook, and even Whitnash. The last of which I was lucky enough to run to at 1am after leaving my bag on a bus and having to collect it from a mate, who had the foresight to also be on that bus service, though paradoxically not the foresight to live even a tiny bit closer to the real world. Characterised by its roughly four-hour-long campus commute, these quiet suburbs and business parks are about as close to retirement or a job as many a Warwick student is likely to get.

Image: Whitnash, Will Moores

Of course, in our increasingly polarised times, it can be easy to focus on division. However, if Leamington Spa teaches us anything, it’s that people from totally different worlds can come together, united by compassion, acceptance, and the worst bus services imaginable, allowing us to sit, or more likely stand, as one.