Marie Antoinette: The fashion icon of times past

“Let them eat cake.” This is the phrase most people think of when they hear the name Marie Antoinette. However, while there is no substantial evidence for the infamous royal ever having said these words, her influence in the world of fashion is beyond doubt. As corsets, dramatic blusher, and bright pastels return to mainstream fashion, it is clear that Marie Antoinette’s rococo style is timeless. Yet, it is no coincidence that Antoinette’s influence is now being restored in a time rife with overconsumption and political turmoil, almost reflecting the conditions of this infamous Queen’s reign. Perhaps we should not only view Antoinette’s everlasting influence as a celebration of her taste in fashion but also as a reminder of the disparities we continue to face within modern-day society.

Whether Marie wore gravity-defying updos, heavily layered skirts, or unconventional bright colours, every woman in France followed suit

Marie Antoinette is not only recognised as a revolutionary style icon in the present day but was also a prominent trendsetter throughout her own life. The memoirs of Madame Campan, Marie Antoinette’s lady-in-waiting, were published in 1823 and revealed much about both the Queen’s private life and her influence on the public. Campan wrote: “All wished instantly to have the same dress as the Queen, and to wear the feathers and flowers to which her beauty, then in its brilliancy, lent an indescribable charm.” Whether Marie wore gravity-defying updos, heavily layered skirts, or unconventional bright colours, every woman in France followed suit. Even in the wake of her death, Marie Antoinette continued to pioneer the style of 18th-century society, as many women wore red ribbons tied around their necks to reflect the Queen’s execution. Therefore, it was inevitable that Antoinette’s power over the fashion industry would remain steadfast over two centuries later.

The trendsetters of today uphold Marie Antoinette’s legacy

In the present day, the Queen of Fashion’s influence in film and media cannot be diminished as celebrities and designers constantly re-interpret her signature look. From the iconic 2012 Vogue editorial of Kate Moss lounging at the Ritz, wearing an Antoinette-inspired, powder-blue dress and headpiece, to Chappell Roan donning a voluminous gown, towering white wig, and avant-garde makeup at the Lollapalooza music festival, the trendsetters of today uphold Marie Antoinette’s legacy. Additionally, Sofia Coppola’s 2006 film Marie Antoinette, starring Kirsten Dunst, re-establishes Antoinette’s relatability to the modern woman by effectively combining history with modernity. For example, Coppola combines early-2000s pop-rock with classical music, and hints at the eternal nature of the Queen’s style when nestling a pastel blue pair of Converse amongst a dozen pairs of rococo-style heels.

Many costumes from this cult classic film, designed by Milena Canonero, are featured in the V&A’s recently opened exhibition, Marie Antoinette Style. The exhibition showcases a variety of Marie Antoinette’s personal items and accessories alongside numerous haute couture pieces inspired by her wardrobe, which the majority of was lost during the French Revolution. Prominent fashion houses ranging from Vivienne Westwood to Valentino and Chanel comprising this exhibition highlight Marie Antoinette’s vital role in establishing what we now recognise as high-end fashion.

The rise of micro-trends in recent years, such as bows, corsets, and butter-yellow clothing, draw parallels to the feminine and extravagant styles popularised by Antoinette                   

With an abundance of magazine articles centred around the Queen of Fashion recently being published and a flurry of social media posts praising her as the founder of the coquette aesthetic, it is clear that she also influences everyday style. The rise of micro-trends in recent years, such as bows, corsets, and butter-yellow clothing, draw parallels to the feminine and extravagant styles popularised by Antoinette. The TikTok term ‘blush blindness’ being used to describe the use of overly pigmented blusher has also grown in popularity this past year, drawing clear similarities to Marie Antoinette’s signature rouge. Therefore, one cannot deny that Antoinette is a revolutionary fashion icon both in the past and the present as her style immortalises her rule over all members of society.

When Marie Antoinette’s mother, Maria Theresa, told her daughter “All eyes will be on you”, in anticipation for Marie’s accession to the throne, she was certainly correct. All eyes in the world of fashion turn towards the Rococo Queen for guidance. Will you also be taking inspiration from Marie Antoinette’s extravagant wardrobe, or will you leave her in the history books?