Beyond Paris: Seasonal escapes to the south of France

It’s deadline season, the weather is excruciatingly British, and you had one too many pints last night… there’s no better time to plan a holiday you will probably never go on. You need look no further than our closest neighbour – but this time, look a little further than Paris. Ample options exist beyond the capital in all seasons. So why not say adieu to Paris and travel south, where milder weather and allegedly friendlier people await? 

It’s an opportunity to sidestep Paris syndrome and enjoy the melodious if frequently indecipherable accents that the south has to offer. Whether you’re dreaming of a winter escape or planning ahead for warmer months, the Hexagon’s lesser-known corners cater for every variety of traveller. Even for those shackled by non-EU citizenship, many cultural attractions are cheap if not entirely free, while the reasonable prices of the southbound TGV (Train á Grande Vitesse) will send Brits through the five stages of grief. 

If you fancy a prolonged wintry stroll along the Côte d’Azur, the Mimosa Route covers a 130km stretch of scenic coastline best explored from January through to March, while mimosa trees are in bloom. Picture winding cliffside roads swathed in vibrant yellow flowers, taking you from the historic village of Bormes-les-Mimosas to the self-proclaimed ‘perfume capital’ of the world, Grasse. A number of small festivals and displays can be found en route, too, providing bite-sized opportunities to engage with local culture and hit the language barrier head on. 

Floats parade through town, featuring intricate constructions of lemons interlaced with yet more lemons, ostentatiously topped off with the occasional orange

Continuing the floral theme, the Riviera’s French-Italian border is home to the small but extravagant town of Menton, whose claim to fame is an annual Fête du Citron celebrating the production of lemons in February. Floats parade through town, featuring intricate constructions of lemons interlaced with yet more lemons, ostentatiously topped off with the occasional orange. Fallen out of love with lemons? A concurrent orchid show is also held for those fatigued by citrine spectacles, billed as “an invitation to relaxation” by the festival’s website. 

 Not far down the coast and in the same month, Nice hosts a world-famous carnival which has been running for an impressive 731 years and counting. There are no lemons in sight, but instead a ‘Bataille de Fleurs’ (‘Flower Battle’), in which you can skirmish with fellow tourists over brightly-coloured bundles – certainly a Mediterranean holiday to remember. 

 December shouldn’t be overlooked, either: with prices lower and tourist numbers dwindling, the budget traveller has more options than ever. Christmas markets are an obvious option, benefitting from a lower chance of drizzle than their more well-known northern equivalents. One of many stand-outs is Avignon, packed in summer for its famous theatre festival (itself worth a visit), but much more accessible in winter. Similarly, you’re granted extra breathing room to peruse the stalls of Aix-en-Provence’s market, with the added bonus of Provençal traditions such as hand-painted ‘santon’ figurines and ‘pastorales’ (theatrical performances). 

Many tourist hotspots typically reserved for summer excursions are equally enjoyable in winter, often refreshingly free of Brits and Americans

Many tourist hotspots typically reserved for summer excursions are equally enjoyable in winter, often refreshingly free of Brits and Americans. A much-needed hush descends upon the legendary walled city of Carcassonne, usually jostling with crowds and scorching in late summer, yet entertainment remains in the form of regular exhibitions and fairs. 

 On a general note, you can enjoy some of France’s most stunning cities regardless of the season: Nîmes and Arles, with their famous amphitheatres, come to mind. A short drive from Nîmes, the Pont du Gard remains open all year round, although its dazzling light shows are reserved for July and August. History and wine enthusiasts also have much to look forward to, with the low season ensuring that châteaux and Chardonnay alike can be enjoyed in peace. 

Of course, if you’re willing to wait until spring and summer, the south becomes if anything even more unmissable. In Provence, the timeless landscapes of Pagnol and Cézanne remain alluring even for a seasoned sightseer, with rolling lavender fields gracing the front of many a postcard taken home. A less touristy alternative is the Cévennes region, whose rugged mountain ranges and gorges boast a smattering of some of the most picturesque villages in the country. The national park is famous for writer Robert Louis Stevenson’s journey with the incorrigible donkey Modestine – and particularly brave travellers can still travel the same trail today with a donkey of their own. 

To the northwest, cyclists can leisurely follow the Canal de Garonne from Toulouse to the Atlantic, sheltered from wind and rain by the boughs of centuries-old plane trees

In the Tarn gorge, UNESCO World Heritage sites like the red brick city of Albi and the Canal du Midi can be found, as well as wild swimming spots which present an appealing alternative to finding yourself dans la merde in an English river. To the northwest, cyclists can leisurely follow the Canal de Garonne from Toulouse to the Atlantic, sheltered from wind and rain by the boughs of centuries-old plane trees. Here, perhaps, the Parisian métro and swarms of tourists are nothing more than a bad dream.