Sun-soaked cinematic fashion

Although they can be overlooked at times, fashion choices are an integral part of films, often bearing a strong influence on not just film visuals, but also their narratives. Wardrobe choices are clear expressions of character and identity, enabling costume designers to harness fashion choices to highlight certain aspects of a character’s personality.

With the sun and heat, which is commonplace within summer-based movies, designers are often forced to strip back, creating more minimal costumes. As a result, summer wardrobes, with lighter clothing, can often be perceived as more casual. However, minimalism is not restricted to how many layers there are and how much fabric is used; an application of minimalism to the designs themselves produces a classy and elegant style.

The Talented Mr. Ripley (1999) is often the first thing that springs to mind for inspiration for men’s summer fashion in film. Written and directed by Anthony Minghella, and based on Patricia Highsmith’s 1955 novel, this film contains an enviable combination of casual and classy looks. Paltrow’s staple white linen shirt is a prime example of the lighter colour palette of these summer outfits. It is often tied into a knot and paired with a flowy midi skirt. The shirt matches the seemingly effortless yet put-together feel of Paltrow’s outfits along the coast.

There is a clear improvement in Ripley’s fashion choices throughout the film, with his preppy yet ill-fitting clothes at the beginning gradually replaced by better-fitting and more fashionable clothing

Stolen identity is a central element of The Talented Mr. Ripley’s plot, so a focus on the outfits in this film is certainly neither strange nor fruitless. The classic, Mediterranean-inspired summer looks that Jude Law and Gwyneth Paltrow wear during their time in the Italian Riviera are juxtaposed with those of Matt Damon’s character Tom Ripley. However, there is a clear improvement in Ripley’s fashion choices throughout the film, with his preppy yet ill-fitting clothes at the beginning gradually replaced by better-fitting and more fashionable clothing which disregards his modest origins. This allows him to blend into the Italian backdrop in a way which mirrors how he blends in to Dickie and Marge’s environment over time, as he becomes more comfortable in the identity which he has falsely assumed.

Roman Holiday (1953), starring Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck, is undoubtedly one of the most famous Audrey Hepburn movies, featuring a variety of breezy summery outfits. Hepburn’s outfits as she plays Princess Ann range from a casual summer wardrobe featuring colourful scarves to the eye-catching 1950s ball gown. The film follows the Princess’ exploration of more casual outfits. A well-known example of this is the outfit featuring the striped neck scarf to accessorise a short-sleeved shirt and a midi skirt. This is reflective of not just the summery atmosphere, but also of Princess Ann’s exploration of more free and ordinary adventures, in contrast to the formal outfits that mirror the royal experiences she is used to. Designed by Edith Head, who holds the record as the woman who has won the most Oscars (including one for her Roman Holiday costume designs), the film’s iconic off-the-shoulder gown features a silhouette typical of the 1950s. Coupled with long silk gloves and a tiara, the cinched waist here is reminiscent of Dior’s 1947 “New Look”, which revived the hourglass silhouette. Therefore, these outfits depict the changes in fashion in contemporary society, as well as the changes in the life of Hepburn’s character.

Tom Cruise as Maverick once again in his classic bomber jacket, white t-shirt, and, of course, the Ray-Ban Aviator sunglasses

Although it may not contain such obvious examples of summer outfits, Top Gun: Maverick (2022) is a more recent example of the impact of summer style on a film. The movie was praised for both its nostalgia and its summery feel. This nostalgia was evoked by not just the use of the music from the original Top Gun (1986), but also the similarities between the outfits featured in this new summer blockbuster and the original film. This new movie paid tribute to the style of the original, seeing Tom Cruise as Maverick once again in his classic bomber jacket, white t-shirt, and, of course, the Ray-Ban Aviator sunglasses which were popularised once he wore them in the original film. Representative of his character’s loyal yet rebellious personality, this also demonstrates the effect of cinematic summer fashion on clothing trends.

Thus, summer movies are the perfect place to find inspiration for summer style, with online influencers lately recreating looks inspired by popular film characters. More importantly, however, summer outfits are a vital component of films. Alongside the expectation that they will reflect the atmosphere and setting of the film lies an underlying power which they wield over an audience’s perception of characters and their intentions.