A key-chain reaction: from niche to necessary as Labubu rises

With many trends swarming our feeds, there’s one gremlin-like gal who we can’t seem to escape (at least on my feed): Labubu. With influencers like Alisha Marie and Remi Cruz consistently posting Labubu unboxings, it’s hard to escape the colourful chaos this charm has caused.

A character who initially appeared as a side character in Kasing Lung’s picture-book series The Monsters, Labubu has become a fashion phenomenon as she’s a blind box that’s enraptured Birkens and basketball players. Labubu is an elf-like figure with pointed ears and serrated teeth; her grin wickedly balances sweet and unsettling. The collectable keychain reminded me of the Sonny Angel trend which came before her crossed with a troll doll and gremlin all mixed into one, leaving you with an ugly-cute fluffy friend wherever you clip her. And yes, Labubu is in fact a girl.

The growing desire to heal one’s inner child is only magnified when trends like this soar

Whilst the craze started in Southeast Asia, it was Blackpink and White Lotus star Lisa (making her acting debut in the show’s latest season three) who propelled the accessory into the mainstream which had Americans desperate for the collectables as well. Many celebrities like Rihanna and Dua Lipa have also hopped on the trend. People internationally are queuing from early hours, for hours, to ensure they get their hands on the Pop Mart marvel as they don’t want to miss out on that dopamine rush one gets when you open the mystery box. From Australia to Bangkok, the competitive and now lucrative demand for Labubus has only increased with its virality.

This virality is only elevated by the addictive quality of wanting to get a complete set, as well as the secret Labubu, which increases the rarity and exclusivity in consumers competing with each other to find the mystery within the mystery box. Another thing that keeps things constantly fresh is that the Labubus has different collections that drop at various times and are styled, named, and coloured in different ways. You never know what you’re going to get. Some influencers even take it as far as closing their eyes on camera so you can see their live reactions to their find.

So, what is it about the ugly-cute? Is the toy one or the other?

But why is a toy keyring setting trends and demand? In the past few years, there has been an increase in the ‘kidult’ phenomenon, which sees social media groups, marketplaces, and platforms selling to adults who relive and find solace in toys similar to those they grew up with. The growing desire to heal one’s inner child is only magnified when trends like this soar.

Starting at £13 in the UK, the accessory made its way to Pop Mart in Oxford Street on 27 April and is also available on Amazon at varying prices. The little monster is also traded, resold, and collected internationally, but has yet to make her way all around the world.

So, what is it about the ugly-cute? Is the toy one or the other? The big, bold eyes and fluffiness lean closer to cute, whilst the scrunched face and teeth lean closer to ugly. So, how has this balance created a loveable creature that everyone’s clawing for?

I’ll be honest. I was initially averse to the toy. I thought it was indeed ugly, a waste of money, and a novel. After doing my research and seeing some of the psychological reasoning behind people’s purchases, I can see why it’s taken TikTok by storm. I just don’t think you’ll be seeing one on my handbag. I can see Labubu’s cuteness, but not enough to be chained to her.