The Lost City of the Tayrona: A Trek Through Time and Jungle

Nestled deep within the jungle of Colombia’s Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta is Ciudad Perdida, or The Lost City, an ancient wonder built by the Tayrona people over a thousand years ago. Rediscovered in the 1970s, this ancient site, which existed 650 years before Machu Picchu, has never achieved the same global recognition. The reality is that it is significantly larger, despite much of it remaining underground.

Eager to see it myself, I took a flight to Santa Marta.

Eager to see it myself, I took a flight to Santa Marta. From there, a few hours on a Jeep ride took us up the mountain to Mamey, a small village on Colombia’s northern Caribbean coast. The trek to Ciudad Perdida requires the accompaniment of an authorized guide, complemented by a team of assistants. In my case four helpers joined us, offering guidance, translation, and logistical support over the four-day expedition.

The trek begins with a steep 15km walk through plantations, a fraction of the 60km trek, leading into the impenetrable jungle along a path that follows the Buritaca River. This route includes climbing and descending four mountains. We started our days at 5:00 am, walked by 5:30am, and reached our daily destinations around 3:00pm, each day more exhausted than the last. A consolation was that each stop offered waterfalls and rivers where we could swim, dive, or refresh ourselves.

On the third day, we ascended the final stretch to reach The Lost City, climbing 1,200 stone steps built by the Tayrona. The moment of arrival is incredible, with the ruins surrounded by majestic mountains just as the sun rises. Sitting on one of the highest terraces, I soaked in the stunning view, feeling the uniqueness and intimacy of being here. Local guides explained that what we see is just 10% of what’s still buried under the mountains. Unlike other archaeological sites, there’s a strong desire from the local community to keep these ruins untouched because they’re considered sacred. In fact, the only person living here is the Shaman from the Wiwa community.

The Wiwa live a simple, community-driven life, calling themselves the Damanas. In English this means ‘the protectors of Mother Nature’.

A significant part of the trip was spending time with the Wiwa communities. The Wiwa live a simple, community-driven life, calling themselves the Damanas. In English, this means ‘the protectors of Mother Nature’. They dedicate their lives to safeguarding the natural world and the mountains of the Sierra Nevada. They shared their traditions, including chewing coca leaves and making mochilas from palm fibres.

So much remains unknown about the history of Ciudad Perdida, also known as Teyuna to indigenous communities, but their stories tell of a once thriving city and cultural and economic hub for the Tayrona civilization. The site currently allows only a glimpse into what was the Tayrona’s advanced engineering skills. This includes the construction of a series of terraces carved into the mountainside, interconnected by stone paths and supported by a complex system of drainage and irrigation.

For a long time, the park was closed due to a kidnapping by the Revolutionary Armed Forces in 2003.

Ciudad Perdida was not always a place with many tourists. Armed conflict in the region and the difficulty accessing it meant that very few tourists would arrive. For a long time, the park was closed due to a kidnapping by the Revolutionary Armed Forces in 2003, which threatened the future of tourism to the city. In 2005 it reopened, with less than a thousand visitors arriving per year, growing to around 25,000 per year in the present.

This rise in tourists has allowed many locals who once depended on coca cultivation to now work as guides, food providers, or transport assistants. The region’s coca production made it a hotbed of violence for guerrilla groups, paramilitaries, and Narcos. While remnants of armed groups still affect the region, tourism has become a salvation for many. They look back at the times of armed conflict with extreme sadness and see tourism as an answer.

The trip to this ancient city is not just a travel experience but a profound exploration of Colombia’s heritage.

The trek to Ciudad Perdida is arduous, but the rewards are worth every step. The landscapes, the history, and the sense of accomplishment make it an unforgettable journey, that additionally offers a glimpse into the lives of the Tayrona people and the enduring legacy of the Wiwa community. The trip to this ancient city is not just a travel experience but a profound exploration of Colombia’s heritage, natural beauty, and ongoing journey toward peace.