Rediscovering roots: my journey through modern Iraq

As the airport buzzed with the commotion of arrivals and departures, my heart raced with silent excitement and anticipation; the summer I finally visit Iraq, the land of my parents, my brother, and generations that came before me.

But, within me, there was a silent turmoil; amidst the enthusiastic chatter of my family, I felt an unspoken fear for the first time: the fear of being an outsider in my own homeland, of being a traveler in a place that should feel like home. This was the land my parents had spoken of longingly for years, and yet I could not shake the fear of displacement, as if I were walking through a dream that was mine, yet not entirely.

How do you find your footing in a place that is both intimately known and yet strangely foreign? How do you bridge the gap between the romanticized image held in your heart and the complex realities that confront you as you walk its streets? My journey through Iraq this summer was not just a physical traverse, but an emotional quest to seek out the threads of belonging and weave them into the fabric of my identity.

I found comfort in the realization that home isn’t solely a place – it’s where you are understood, and your history lives on through the stories and connections of family.

Sitting with my grandmother in the foreign yet familiar setting of her kitchen, I was struck by a profound sense of belonging again; her stories about my parents, rich with history and personal memories, had a way of anchoring me to the place, had the power to transport us back to times when our family tree was deeply rooted in this land. I found that, despite the years and the geographical distances that had separated myself and my family, we found common ground in the experiences and familial bonds we shared. The jokes we shared, the meals we ate together, the football we played late into the night, the initial questions of belonging dissipated. I found comfort in the realization that home isn’t solely a place – it’s where you are understood, and your history lives on through the stories and connections of family.

Their perspectives on life in Iraq, infused with hope and resilience, offered me a deeper understanding of my heritage and the complex tapestry of modern Iraqi society.

Between Conflict and Community: The Spirit of Iraq

Walking through one of Baghdad’s vibrant markets is to step into a microcosm where life’s tenacity is on full display, a sensory testament to the enduring spirit of commerce that pulses through the city’s veins. Instead of letting the scars of war and conflict imprinted on the surrounding buildings dominate the atmosphere, they are but a mere backdrop to the daily bustle, their facades scarred with the marks of past struggles, yet standing defiantly.

One can’t help but feel heartened by the optimism that permeates the place; the market, with its symphony of sights, sounds, and smells, is a daily reaffirmation that even in the face of past conflicts, the people of Baghdad persist, ever hopeful for a peaceful and prosperous future.

The markets thrive, as merchants set up their stalls with an air of purpose – merchants, who have witnessed the ebbs and flows of the city, who have lived through the rise and fall of Baghdad, who are actively contributing to her rise again – and greet each and every customer as if they were members of their own family. The sense of community in Iraq struck me: conversations between shopkeepers and patrons go beyond mere transactions. They are exchanges of news, inquiries about family, discussions about sport, shared laughter – they are currencies of human connection.

It is this human connection which has helped sustain this society through its trials and tribulations. One can’t help but feel heartened by the optimism that permeates the place; the market, with its symphony of sights, sounds, and smells, is a daily reaffirmation that even in the face of past conflicts, the people of Baghdad persist, ever hopeful for a peaceful and prosperous future. At the end of the market lies one of the oldest and most famous coffeehouses in Baghdad, Shabandar Café, the cultural hub of Iraq, where locals gather and discuss poetry, art, and literature. Shabandar was unfortunately targeted during the civil war, when it was bombed, killing 100. How did the Iraqi people respond? With poetry and love, with Iraqi poet Ahmed Hussain famously reciting a poem on the ruins of the coffeehouse; the community came together and restored the café to its former eminence; a beacon of collective hope, and a testament to the enduring and everlasting pursuit of cultural prosperity amidst the narrative of reconstruction.

Iraqi Art: The Voice of a Nation’s Soul

Mutanabbi Street – named and built after Iraq’s renowned 10th-century poet Al-Mutanabbi – stands as a symbol of intellectual and cultural vibrancy in the heart of Baghdad, with the street lined with bookstores and stalls, a testament to the rich literary tradition that lives on in Iraq, each work providing a unique lens through which to view the the complexities of Iraqi life, past and present.

The written word in Baghdad is not just a form of escapism, but a medium for confronting and understanding the multifaceted experiences of the nation, but the cultural tapestry of Mutanabbi Street is further enriched by the music that often fills the air. Traditional musicians perform, creating a soundscape that resonates with the soul of the nation, a nation of storytellers.

Mutanabbi is more than a physical location to Baghdad; it’s the voice of Iraq’s soul – a place where the collective consciousness and identity are expressed and celebrated, a space where the sense of community is overwhelming, the resilience of its people, their hopes, and the unwavering commitment to their cultural legacy are on full display: the intellectual heartbeat of Baghdad, a continuous source of inspiration and unity for its people.

The sense of detachment, the subtle yet persistent feeling of being an imposter had vanished completely. As I navigated the vibrant streets, engaged with the enduring spirit of Baghdad’s people, and immersed myself in the cultural heartbeat of the nation, I was reconnected with my roots in a way that was both refreshing and humbling, embracing a newfound appreciation for the intricacies of my heritage. This journey transformed the abstract concept of belonging into a tangible, real experience of coming home.

As I prepared to leave, I found myself reluctant to do so, profoundly changed by the rediscovery of my place in the rich tapestry of Iraq’s history, and the beautiful warmth of its community – a community that, against all odds, continues to thrive with hope and resilience.