Responsible tourism: visiting Auschwitz

2018 marks the 73rd anniversary of the liberation of Nazi concentration camps, and the subsequent end of the Holocaust. Saturday 27th January marked Holocaust Memorial Day (HMD) around the world – where commemorations of the victims took place. During the Nazi regime and occupation, 6 million Jewish people were murdered in a genocide that we now call the Holocaust. Alongside the Holocaust, the Nazi’s and their collaborators oppressed, persecuted and murdered many other minority groups, including the murder of approximately 200,000 Romani people, 250,000 mentally and physically disabled people, and 9,000 homosexuals.

This year’s theme is “The Power of Words.” As a Regional Ambassador for the Holocaust Educational Trust, I have had the opportunity to visit Auschwitz, Bergen-Belsen and Sachsenhausen Concentration Camps, alongside dozens of other Ambassadors from across the UK. As well as this, I have studied at the Yad Vashem Holocaust Memorial Centre in Israel. Just the word “Auschwitz” has become synonymous with the notions of death, destruction, extermination and evil. It is a site that symbolises humanity’s darkest days –  a place where 1.1 million people died – the majority killed in gas chambers.

“Auschwitz” has become synonymous with the notions of death, destruction, extermination and evil

Once we landed in Krakow, Poland, we travelled through the town of Oświęcim in order to get to the Auschwitz I campsite. The area itself was rural and rundown – it has struggled to recover from the effects of the war, where many of its citizens fled, or were killed. Before the war, the town had a population of 12,000 people, with 8,000 of those being Jews. By the end of the war, only 2,000 people remained – none of them were Jewish. It is clear to see that the shadow of history, to this day, remains over the town.

We’re all very aware of the atrocities of the Holocaust, but coming face to face with the place so many of these monstrous acts occurred was an experience that will never leave me. Standing underneath those infamous gates, the words “Work Makes Free” above my head, I couldn’t have imagined the things I would see, hear and learn, an education my school history books never truly gave me.

Coming face to face with the place so many of these monstrous acts occurred was an experience that will never leave me

Jewish gravestones were removed from cemeteries and used to pave roads. Those deemed unfit for work were immediately sent to their deaths, judged by the commanding officer’s eye. Only a flick of the thumb – left or right – decided their fate. Humanity wasn’t awarded to those held captive here. Rations could barely be survived on – with lunch being a litre of watery soup, and if lucky, adorned with a piece of turnip or potato peel. Prisoners worked long hours in often sub-zero conditions. Their bones protruded from their skin, visible underneath their now-iconic striped uniforms. Seeing these outfits in real life was harrowing. As was seeing the ‘The Book of Names’, a list of names of all those who died, it was at least 8 feet long and 3 feet wide, thousands of pages of pure death.

Auschwitz II Birkenau was the main part of the camp – where most of the horror and destruction took place. The camp was run like a business with around 6,000 prisoners being killed per day. It had its own sewer system, gas chambers, guard towers and even a train station within the confines of the camp itself. The train-tracks passed under the infamous front entrance of the camp, which housed a 360-degree view of the camp.

Seeing these outfits in real life was harrowing

Many of those who were brought to Auschwitz were told they would receive a new job and a vast improvement in the quality of their family life – the journey to the camp itself would have been horrific, with cattle cars that were initially meant to house 50 deportees, being crammed with 150 prisoners – 5,000 to a train – without food or water. Prisoners who managed to stay alive during transit only faced worse conditions once they go to the camp. Prisoners were housed in animal stables that had been hastily converted for human incarceration. They used to hold 50 horses, but were used to house around 400 prisoners. 7 people slept in each row of the stacked wooden bunks, with 21 to a bed and disease was rife throughout the camp.

Then there was the gas chamber itself. For this, pictures or videos are not allowed. I can only describe to you what I saw, and felt. We were in complete darkness, with only a commemorative candle lighting the room. It was then that it truly hit me: I was standing where so many innocent people had taken their last breath. Victims’ bodies were looted for anything of value and their cremated bodies dumped in a nearby river, which was found to have three metres worth of riverbed made up entirely of human ash.

I was standing where so many innocent people had taken their last breath

The Holocaust Educational Trust participated in a short memorial service to commemorate the victims who perished. To repeat the numbers of those killed by the Nazi regime again: around 6 million Jews, 200,000 Romani people, 250,000 mentally and physically disabled people, and 9,000 homosexuals. Some historians say figures could be as high as 9 million victims.

To put the figures I have mentioned throughout this article into perspective, there are around 15,000 Warwick undergraduates – this would mean that the number of people killed during the Holocaust (around 6,500,000) is equivalent to killing each intake of undergrads on the Warwick campus, four hundred and thirty times over. The official website for HMD says “Words can make a difference – both for good and evil.” We, as a society, must ensure we never let this happen again, by challenging bigotry and hatred of others whenever we see it.

The number of people killed during the Holocaust (around 6,500,000) is equivalent to killing each intake of undergrads on the Warwick campus, four hundred and thirty times over

My visit to Auschwitz was unique, just like it would be to anyone who visits. Every individual reacts differently to what they learn – some cry, some remain emotionless – all reactions are perfectly fine. Going to the camp was something I look back on as a truly life-changing experience, and I would actively encourage anyone to visit at least one of the many Holocaust memorial sites located throughout Europe. Each site has its own story to tell – the pain and suffering of humankind would have differed wherever the victims were sent. You don’t have to go to Auschwitz to see the scale of horror that unfolded just 70 years ago.

Following on from the televisation of the Nuremberg Trials, and the release of movies like “Schindler’s List”, public awareness of the Holocaust has risen immensely, with camps like Auschwitz alone receiving well over one million visitors a year. Recent atrocities around the world have also raised public awareness for the Holocaust – with parallels being draw between recent genocides.

You don’t have to go to Auschwitz to see the scale of horror that unfolded just 70 years ago.

With the increase in visitor numbers, and the rise of social media, the amount of inappropriate behaviour seen at the sites has risen too. Some people treat their visits like an excursion on a holiday, which sometimes leads to arguably offensive actions, such as snapping selfies next to memorials or beautifying them on sites like Instagram. I myself saw a couple kissing and holding hands under the archway of Auschwitz.

It is important when visiting these sites to remain respectful at all times and participate in responsible tourism

It is important to remember people actually died, in horrible conditions, during the Holocaust – 6 million is just a figure on a piece of paper, or text on a screen – but each victim had a story, they were someone’s son, daughter, father, mother, grandparent, aunt, uncle. It is important when visiting these sites to remain respectful at all times and participate in responsible tourism. If you are lucky enough to visit one of these sites, remember where you are, why you are there and the human suffering that took place beneath your feet.