City guide: Istanbul, Turkey

Even for a short-term visitor, who spends just two days in Istanbul, its rhythmic chaos can feel like home. With its old historical attractions and newly awakening youth culture, the constantly changing Istanbul still manages to stay “hip” and blend in clashing cultures, values, tastes, and sounds. But with so much to see and so much to do and so much to taste, where to start?

Istanbul has been the home to major artistic, political and religious events for more than 2000 years, reflecting the genius of Byzantine and Ottoman culture and architecture that illustrates significant phases of human history.

The city is a sea of historic attractions. The 6^th century Hagia Sophia (a Byzantine cathedral turned mosque, and now a museum), Basilica Cistern, Süleymaniye Mosque, Dolmabahçe Palace, and Topkapı Palace are some of the pillars for the story of Istanbul that most tourists visit. Another must-see that visitors tend to miss out on is the Galata Mevlevihanesi. Once the retreat of the dervishes (Sufi mystics), it is now a museum and home to must see performances of the whirling dervishes.

The Grand Bazaar and the Spice Bazaar offer all kinds of merchandise from Turkish carpets to rare spices. The colorful atmosphere is worth seeing even if you’re not going to buy anything.

But if you’re looking for souvenirs, go for leather goods or jewellery – don’t forget to bargain, as most sellers in the bazaars are also professional frauds.

Feel free to go around the Spice Bazaar trying sweets from different stalls, and if you’re taking Turkish delight or other delicacies back home with you, make sure they’re vacuum-packed.

Even if you aren’t the artsy type, don’t miss out on museums, as they’re generally a breath of fresh air after tourist packed attractions. Pera Museum, with a collection on Kütahya tiles and Orientalist portraits from the late Ottoman era, Istanbul Modern Museum, an icon that stages a permanent and changing collections of modern Turkish art, Sakıp Sabancı Museum, and the Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum are all worth seeing.

Before you go to Istanbul, you must check out legendary Turkish-Armenian photojournalist Ara Guler’s Istanbul photos. Once a photojournalist for Time-Life, Paris-Match and Der Stern magazines, Guler’s Istanbul photos mirror the past and present of the mysterious city.

Visiting these places will be thrilling but tiring, and it might be difficult to cover them all, but one place that holds special value to me personally is the Galata Tower.

Built in 500 A.D. as a watchtower, it’s the perfect place to gaze over the distinctive skyline of the old city on an afternoon. The neighboring cafes and restaurants of Karaköy offer an intimate atmosphere for those searching for an offbeat experience.

You have to visit a Hamam (Turkish bath) for the ultimate experience. The process consists of relaxing in a heated area to work up a sweat, followed by an attendant scrubbing you with a coarse mitt to remove layers of dead skin, ending with getting washed with soap.

After this you can get a massage or stay for as long as you like in the cool down room, having tea, reading or chatting. Although some people might be uncomfortable with the idea of bathing with other naked people in a room, it feels surprisingly normal once you’re there. The process is thoroughly cleansing but also extremely relaxing. I would advise you to go to the newly restored Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamamı.

If you feel like escaping the chaotic Istanbul traffic, the Princes Islands is the place to go. Take a ferry from Kabataş going to the four islands, and get of at Heybeliada or Büyükada. As there are no cars on these islands, you can hop on a horse-drawn carriage or rent a bicycle to explore around the pine groves and old wooden villas.

Make sure to visit the Church of St. George on the highest hill of Büyükada, and try mouthwatering Midye Tava (fried mussels with tarator).

It’s very hard to go wrong with food in Istanbul – as long as you stay away from restaurants filled with inveigled tourist and unhygienic looking kebab stalls; the whole city can become an enticing buffet.

Breakfast is an important meal for the Turks, so there are a lot of tastes to savour. Grab a good looking simit (a crisp circular bread with sesame) from any street side seller to have with your morning Turkish tea, and make your way to Bebek Kahve, a simple and traditional café right next to the Bosphorus, or Gram, a tiny place near Taksim with incredible food.

Take your time and definitely try Turkish scrambled eggs menemen, homemade jams, and honey with kaymak (insanely rich clotted cream) that you slather over warm bread.

Go to places with locals inside. For a filling meal, Hünkar offers main dishes of Ottoman descent, ayran and Hünkar Beğendi (smoked eggplant puree topped with lamb or beef chunks). Or for a more polished night, try Mikla, a stylish rooftop restaurant with one the best bird’s eye views of Istanbul offering a Scandinavian-Turkish menu.

Yes, Turkey is generally associated with the kebab, but there’s so much more that it can offer. I’d advise you to cut back on the meat and try different types of meze (starters shared between the whole table), sarma (rice in vine leaves), various vegetable dishes cooked in olive oil, and fish – a lot of it.

If you’ve got a sweet tooth, try Turkish specialties like baklava, ekmek kadayıfı, katmer and künefe.

Or go to the neighbourhood of Arnavutkoy and find Gırandola, an ice-cream parlor that creates innovative tastes with all natural ingredients, that could race with the famous ice creameries of Rome. Grab your cone and go for a stroll next to the grand Bosphorus.

If you aren’t tired from a day of sightseeing, join the nightlife in the bohemian streets of Asmalimescit. Try the signature vodka with mastika in Otto Santral or visit Babylon for live music acts that range from Turkish folk music to Cuban rap.

Other destinations could be the rooftop lounge at Nu Pera or Angelique, the famous waterside club set against the scenic Ortaköy Mosque, which hosts World-renowned DJ’s with knock-out house and electro sets.

If you want to be more than a mere visitor, and become a local in a city that’s ready to take you in with all it’s wonders and chaos, think of Istanbul as your hometown, or an old friend.

Go out and discover places on your own, or sit in a small café and watch those passing by. Talk to people you find interesting, and get ready for the craziest stories and weirdest acquaintances. Try to listen to its sounds, savour its tastes and when you’re ready, give something back, leave your mark.