Great Scot! The glories of Glasgow

“Its really pretty when it snows, and when its sunny” purrs my new Scottish friend in her soft accent, to which I snootily retort “pah! so that’s two days of the year covered then”.
I, like an unfortunately large per cent of the British population, had written off Glasgow as being a complete dive, overrun with poverty and crime and nothing but a slight embarrassment to its more affluent neighbour, Edinburgh.

Is it any wonder, then, that after my 7-hour train journey spent contemplating my pre-conceptions; I was not in the best frame of mind when stepping onto the platform at Glasgow Central one chilly autumn afternoon?

What unfolded before me, however, were a multitude of enjoyable opportunities, beautiful historic sights and stunning countryside surroundings which have shattered the stereotype forever and put Scotland’s largest city firmly on my map of desirable destinations.

In chronological order: the train ride into Glasgow is a stunner in itself. Winding sedately through the Lake District before entering the rolling hills of the Scottish border, you are reminded from the outset that this vast sprawling city is not far from the wild Scottish countryside that outdoorsy types like me crave. This proximity is also worth bearing in mind when planning the itinerary for the next few days, especially if you are prone to city-claustrophobia or have travelled here in Autumn, when the countryside is just too beautiful to miss.

Your city days in Glasgow can be spent wandering the sights, in particular the city museum, an incredible Gothic masterpiece nestled in the huge landscaped Kelvingrove gardens, Glasgow’s answer to Hyde Park. This is also home to Glasgow University, a Hogwarts-style castle with beautiful courtyards and cloisters which could rival even Oxbridge in beauty and studious charm. Stretching from here into the West End as far as the eye can see are welcoming Georgian streets lined with one café and quirky patisserie after the next, as well as independent cinemas and ridiculously cheap, artsy bars for which we can thank the massive student population of this double-university city.

Certainly not to be missed is the ‘Bookclub’, a retro bar-cum-restaurant set in an old done-up rectory in the hip West End. Snuggle into a leather sofa booth and enjoy your afternoon tea from a vintage tea-set, or a cocktail; irresistibly priced at £3 each! After this, stroll down quirky Ashton St. and stop at The Grosvenor; an independent cinema complete with sofas, blankets and long-gone films you never thought you’d see on the big screen again.

After a day in the city, however, this self-confessed country girl was desperate to don a pair of wellies and go further afield; I couldn’t bear knowing the existence of the rugged surroundings and stay in the city. A half-hour cheap train ride from the city centre will bring you to Balloch, a village nestled on the shore of the much-loved Loch Lomond. From the cute village, wander along the shore path which alternates between autumnal forest and pebbly lake beaches with incredible views of the sun-streaked Trossack Mountains beyond. Amble up the footpath to the derelict but perfectly preserved Balloch Castle and perch atop the mound for unparalleled views of the picturesque countryside.

Perhaps the only cloud on this otherwise unmarred horizon are the echoing shouts of a brash Glaswegian tourist guide on the paddle steamer tour boat, which pierces the otherwise tranquil setting as it chugs its way along the shore. Still, at least you can sit a relative distance from him and be thankful that you didn’t waste £8.50 to be shouted at.
Sitting here, writing this atop Moss o’ Balloch Hill, staring out over the water in the Autumn sun, I find it hard to believe that no one had ever told me about Glasgow and the treasures the city and its surroundings had to offer.

I admit that there is still much that I just don’t understand about Scotland. Potato Scones, for example are not an acceptable sandwich filling; fried Mars Bars are and always will be disgusting, and it does (sorry to break this to you, Scots) rain all the time; but I urge you to give it a chance, even if just en-route to the Highlands (a mere 1.5 hour train ride away) or as a daytrip from Edinburgh (£8 return ticket).

The word needs to be spread about the charms this city has to offer because dig a little deeper below its reputation of urban poverty and crime and you can’t fail to be pleasantly surprised at its historical splendour and rugged surroundings. It needs a little love, and I hope I’ve convinced you to bestow it some of yours.