Soul searching in Singapore

It’s possible to come to Singapore as a tourist, immerse yourself in local life, then return with a rosy impression of the city-state. You might head to the resort island of Sentosa, then maybe Orchard Road shopping district to experience capitalism in all its glory as you shop for that Louis Vouitton handbag. Check out Singapore Zoo, ride the Singapore Flyer (like the London Eye) and take an amphibious Duck Tour of the city before heading down to Raffles Place. This colonial masterpiece marks the heart of the Central Business District where you can observe the scurrying masses of shirt-clad (no suits – it’s bloody hot here) financiers and lawyers whose collective toil tickles the economic funny-bone of this surreal consumer playground.

You can probably guess that I didn’t come to Singapore for a holiday. I’ve been lucky enough to spend nearly three months here, two working as an intern. It has been a fascinating and unparalleled experience getting to know this island nation and the wonderful people who live here. Sadly, however, I cannot say that I like Singapore. While the locals are a wonderful bunch, and I indeed had an amazing time working here, it has failed the ultimate ‘do I want to live here?’ test.

Due to the island’s diminutive size, three months is enough to really get to know the place. Its size is frequently remarked upon with a kind of resigned mirth, but for the sojourner it is perfect. Before long you’ll be reeling off the names of MRT stations like a local and perfectly remembering the streets. It also helps that most Singaporeans are extremely welcoming and keen to initiate you into their way of life (in my case involved being constantly fed more local dishes and treats than you could imagine).

I warn you, however, that you may feel strange when you first arrive. In my first week, I couldn’t shake this eerie sense of inexplicable dread. Initially I thought I was just jet-lagged, but after comparing experiences with a European friend of mine who had arrived a week earlier, we both agreed we had felt the same thing. While I can’t claim that my travel experience is too extensive (I’ve only stayed in three other countries before), Singapore was the only country in which I have ever experienced true culture shock.

The scary thing about Singapore is that, while material prosperity is abundant (over one-fifth of the population are millionaires) and the city’s infrastructure is second-to-none, the sheer cultural and spiritual energy found in Europe’s great cities is simply not there. To its credit, the city-state is extremely safe, spotlessly clean, and its populace is very well-educated, but for me everything was just a little bit too clinical. It is not that safety and cleanliness are bad things, but its level of perfection creates an atmosphere of general conformity and anonymity. Because it can claim to be one of the richest countries in the world, and the only fully developed country in the region, one tends to compare the standard of living there to cities like London, Paris or New York. But if you do make this comparison you’ll only feel depressed. The very fabric of Singaporean society is so geared toward consumption and obedience that it stultifies the creative industries from which other developed countries benefit. I met one young aspiring fashion designer, yet she has resigned herself to working in fashion marketing as she saw no opportunities in that field. Moreover, freedom of speech and freedom of association are lacking. The government is democratic in name, yet is essentially a one-party autocracy. Singapore is indeed the strongest example that high GDP, freedom and creativity do not necessarily go hand in hand.

Please don’t assume that I had an entirely negative experience. If you remove yourself from politics, the island has much beauty and culture to offer, especially if you stay away from the gaudy tourist attractions. From the pristine beaches to the quaint old shop-houses, Singapore has a surprising amount of history and leisure activities packed into its few hundred square miles. The food is exceptional and wonderfully cheap. I’ll truly miss being able to eat a delicious and filling hot lunch every day for the equivalent of just a few pounds. People here are also remarkably friendly and hospitable, and you’re almost guaranteed a warm welcome from your host.

Many Westerners have made Singapore their home, but for someone like me whose career interests lie outside the fields of business, finance and law and who values human rights, Singapore is sadly not a place I could happily call home. If it strives to rank among the great cities of the world, it needs to modernise spiritually aswell as economically.